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Student Bodies

Grainne Byrne reviews this year’s Edinburgh College of Art Fashion Show

Design by Sarah Martin, Photo: John McGregor

A KEY date in the capital’s fashion calendar every year, Edinburgh College of Art’s Fashion Show keeps getting bigger, bolder and, yes, better. Running for over fifty years now, it puts Edinburgh on the map as a source of new talent in the fashion and design industry. Though often referred to us ‘budding’ fashion, textile and costume designers, the third and final year students showed not a sign of amateurism in this year’s three-day sell-out event, with several highlights.

Mentored by hosiery heroines Bebaroque, the third year textile students put paid to the notion that tights are solely functional things, the highlight of their dynamic hosiery collection being the ‘robocop’ tights with shiny little droplets of bronze dripped cleverly onto the garment.

Sponsored by esteemed manufacturers Lochcarran, the graduate tailoring and accessories were both directional and wearable. Taking traditional tailoring to new heights, students cleverly stamped their own personalities across this collection, giving depth to two-piece suits and adding Victorianinspired bussels to ‘wiggle’ skirts. Raine Hodgson’s dramatic, feather-collared, space age skirt suit stole that section of the show.

Design by Raine Hodgson, Photo: John McGregor

The entire Jean Muir-inspired collection by the third year students was impressive and innovative. Incorporating a range of textiles and materials from sheepskin to mohair, it abounded with beautiful woollen coats, lush oversized jackets, and futuristic bubble coats with careful detailing. I adored Emma Brown’s thoughtfully tassled matador bolero.

A focal point of the show was the Regenerate Project, which challenged second year students to create couture-style outfits using ethically sourced and sustainable materials such as skins, hair and feathers. Regenerate presented a diverse range of elegant, high end outfits. Like Prada for environmentalists, this collection looked expensive and was wearable, yet sophisticated.

The inspirational graduate capsule collections drew on a spectrum of influences, from Russia and a grandparent’s home to a passion for cycling and a love of silent movie sirens. I loved Sarah Martin’s ‘Need for Uncertainty’, an otherwise safe, neutral collection with an injection of acidic yellow, which won her the Lochcarron of Scotland Award for Creative Tailoring and Accessories. Carly Wilson’s punk and mod scene-inspired collection oozed attitude and coolness, while Kerr Watson’s interpretation of traditional sportswear fabrics was sophisticated. A personal favourite was Raine Hodgson’s ‘Folks Like These’ collection, which had the audience applauding the vibrant and rich combination of materials and textures inspired by Russian folklore.

DVDs of the Edinburgh College of Art Fashion Show are available for £5.99. Visit www.eca.ac.uk/fashionshow.