SETTING Leith Waterfront, along the cobbled, curving Shore is akin to the Left Bank in Paris, lined with pubs, art galleries, cocktail bars and bistros. The Ship Seafood Restaurant and Bar has a quirky maritime theme from floor to ceiling – sea chart wallpaper, oars, ropes, helms, lamps and lanterns. With drinking and dining sections, the space is crammed with polished wood tables, romantically dressed with champagne bottle candlesticks.

FOOD The extensive, hand-written menu changes daily, plus blackboard specials (Fruits de Mer for 2, with an optional bottle of bubbly). A glass of champagne is wisely suggested as the perfect aperitif.

Given the provenance of the menu – Shetland scallops, Loch Torridon rope-reared mussels, North Berwick lobster – this is straight from reel and creel to plate. We started with Ship’s Cullen Skink, a thick fishy potato soup, and Ship’s Fishcakes, chunky salmon with a chilli spice kick. Next, classic Lobster Thermidor, the tender shellfish smothered in creamy mustard sauce, served with rocket, peppers and cucumber salad, and fat, crispy Ship’s chips.

Also quickly devoured is the organic sea trout on samphire and parmesan risotto, with the samphire adding the perfect salty flavour and texture. With such generous portions, we could not be tempted by sticky toffee pudding or rhubarb crumble. The wine list (25 whites, 21 reds, rose and champagne) complements the cuisine well: fruity Pinot Grigio, bone-dry Chablis, crisp Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc.