Across The Table
Dining sponsored reviews by Lea Harris
A selection of dining reviews are included, for the complete list of restaurants, see the main
magazine here.
The Pompadour
Caledonian Hilton, Princes St., West End.
T 0131 222 8777 www.hilton.co.uk
Lunch: Tues-Friday 12.30-2.30pm. Dinner: Tues-Sat 6.30-10pm.
There's no denying it, the view from the 'Caley's' wonderful first floor Pompadour
restaurant is nothing but spectacular. Damask swags frame the windows that gaze
up to the castle, the ornate plasterwork ceiling adds to the grandeur. Emphasis is
on Scottish produce and over twenty wines have a Scottish history. The humble
razor clams tumble in the wide pasta ribbons; roast cherry tomatoes and hints of
citrus pull the dish together. Splitting open my poached duck egg, the butter yellow
yoke puddles over the baby leeks, mingling with a light hollandaise sauce. Both
elegant simplicity. Turbot and duck confit may seem an oddity, but the fish is more
than capable of taking on the aromatic spiced duck - a remarkable union. A gutsy
ragout of oxtail and woodland mushroom partners my thick cushion of air-dried
Borders steak, decorated with sweetbreads. The caramel assiette is a toffee delight
with a tiny pudding, caramelised baby pear; a caramel lime ice cream balances
the sweetness. Opulent indulgence.
Price Range: Two courses average £30, set
two/three course menu £15/£17.50. Wine from £20.
CIRCUS WINE BAR & GRILL
58a North Castle St.,
T 0131 226 6743
www.circuswinebarandgrill.co.uk.
Mon-Fri 12-2.30pm. Mon-Sat 7-10pm.
Bar: Mon-Fri 11am-3pm. Mon-Thurs 5-11pm/1am Fri/Sat.
It's clear that the Circus Wine Bar & Grill specialises in luxury with sumptuous regal
purples and opulent leather upholstery. Food is just as elaborate. An abundance of
scallops teetering on black pudding, the plate dotted with pinpoints of applesauce
is a veritable feast. Pork cheek and belly, lentils and spinach are peasant fare, but
together they are delicious bedfellows. Following through, we tuck into the fish of
the day and steak from the grill. My salmon is a bold mixture of oxtail cannelloni
and pan-fried fish set in a mild horseradish sauce; a lemon mash adds a citrus flash.
The rib eye is a succulent slab and it's so nice to get a proper chip - thick golden
sticks. A vibrant green pesto glaze on the tomato is heady with basil. Desserts are
sexy; pale green apple parfait is a medley of sorbet on a toffee apple flake. The parfait
is a slender appley cigar. Gorgeous colour and sensational textures. With over 300
wines to suit most budgets, unwinding with a glass or two in the bar at the end of a
hard day is a welcome indulgence.
Price Range: Two courses average £28. Wines
£15.50-£2250.
GIULIANO 'S ON THE SHORE
1 Commercial St., Leith
T 0131 554 5272 www.giulianos.co.uk
Open: Sun-Thurs noon-10.30pm. Fri/Sat noon-11pm.
Giuliano's is very much family orientated, tables are well spaced and the light interior
is split is into several dining areas. As you'd expect the menu has a fair smattering
of pizza and pasta supplemented by an extensive daily fish menu as well as typical
Italian dishes. A good bacon laden, creamy spaghetti cabonara as a starter needs no
introduction. I love the concentrated intensity of sun-dried cherry tomatoes with my
griddled and marinated Mediterranean vegetables, adding to my five-a-day. Delightful
sea-fresh sweet queenie scallops and mussels peep from their shells on my platter of
crustacea and fish. I've already been given the requisite accoutrements for extracting
the last remnants from the langoustines- it's messy but gratifying. I get nods of
approval from my partner as she tucks into breaded chicken escalope and spaghetti
Napoli. Everything is well balanced and departs the open kitchen to table with lightening
speed. Desserts are primarily of the ice cream variety, but there is a light rendition of that
classic, tiramisu.
Price Range: Two courses average £20, house wine £13.20.
RHUBARB
Prestonfield House, Priestfield Rd.,
T 0131 225 1333 www.rhubarb-restaurant.com
Mon-Sat 12-2pm. Sun 1-3pm. Sun-Thurs 6.30-10pm.
Fri/Sat 6-11pm. Afternoon Tea: Mon-Sun 3-6pm.
Prestonfield House is dramatic and stunning. Peacocks strut and call in the grounds.
Claret, gold and black dining rooms are accentuated with pastoral scenes through the
majestically draped windows. Scottish produce is predominant and my bacon and
pork belly terrine doesn't shy from its humble roots; a traditional piccalilli has tartness
that offsets the meat beautifully. Scallops, by contrast, are pretty morsels teetering on
baby potatoes, garlic scented beurre blanc just hints of the pungent herb. Corseted in
a crêpe, lamb is kept perfectly moist and pink; the slices of meat rest on an amazing
fresh mint-infused gratin potato. My guinea fowl is no less impressive - the breast
fanned over a fricassee of root vegetables, the pistachio encrusted boudin sweetened
by Agen prunes. Both dishes expertly crafted, full of fantastic flavours and contrasts.
A chocolate confection with caramel and Maldon sea salt ice-cream is truly addictive.
Price Range: Two courses average £30, set two course menu £25, pre-theatre menu
£16.95, Sunday Lunch £16.95. Wine from £19.
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